Gold K and PT950 Platinum Explained: How to Choose the Right Metal
DANFÉE Guide · Metals
The diamond often gets all the attention, but the metal around it decides how a piece looks, feels and ages. Here is what 14K, 18K and Pt950 actually mean, and how to choose the one that suits your life.
The short version: K tells you how much gold is in the metal, not what colour it is. Higher karat means richer colour and more gold; lower karat means a harder, more affordable metal. Platinum is a different metal altogether: naturally white, measured in parts per thousand, and not the same thing as white gold.
What does “K” mean?
K (karat) measures gold purity out of 24 parts. 24K is nearly pure gold, 18K is 18 parts gold out of 24 (75%), and 14K is 14 parts out of 24 (58.3%). The remaining parts are alloy metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium. These make the metal harder and more affordable, and they also change its colour, its value and how it wears over time.
Do not confuse karat with carat. Karat describes the purity of gold; carat describes the weight of a gemstone, and one carat equals 0.2 grams.
| Gold type | Stamp | Gold content | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9K | 375 | 37.5% | Very high | Entry-level jewellery at the lowest price |
| 10K | 417 | 41.7% | Very high | Budget-friendly, active everyday wear |
| 14K | 585 | 58.3% | High | Everyday fine jewellery, engagement rings |
| 18K | 750 | 75.0% | Medium | Fine and luxury jewellery, sensitive skin |
| 22K | 916 | 91.7% | Low | Traditional and cultural jewellery |
| 24K | 999 | 99.9% | Very low | Investment and bullion |
A note on 9K: this is a recognised standard in the UK, Ireland and Australia, where it is a popular entry point to gold jewellery. In the United States the minimum is 10K, so 9K cannot be sold there as gold and is rarely seen.
How to check your own piece: look for a small stamp such as “585” or “14K” on the inside of a ring or near the clasp of a necklace. The three-digit number is the same purity written in parts per thousand, which is why a 14K stamp reads 585 even though 14 out of 24 works out to 58.3%.
Lower karat or higher karat?
Neither is simply better. Each step up the scale trades some hardness for more gold and deeper colour.
Lower karat
- Harder, more resistant to scratches and dents
- More affordable
- Holds gemstones securely in settings
- Paler gold colour
- More likely to tarnish or discolour skin over time
- Higher chance of skin reactions, because it contains more alloy
- Lower gold value
Higher karat
- Richer, deeper gold colour
- Gentler on sensitive skin
- Higher gold value
- Softer; scratches and bends more easily
- Less suited to delicate settings or heavy daily wear
- Higher price
Yellow, white, rose: colour is not purity
Gold colour comes from the alloy, so it tells you nothing about how much gold a piece contains. 14K yellow, 14K white and 14K rose gold all contain 58.3% gold, just as all three colours of 18K contain 75%.
Yellow gold
The classic, warm gold tone, made by mixing gold with silver and copper. It needs no plating and is the easiest colour to maintain.
White gold
Gold alloyed with white metals such as palladium, nickel or silver, then usually plated with rhodium for a bright, mirror-like finish. The rhodium gradually wears away and typically needs re-plating every one to two years. If you have a nickel allergy, ask us about nickel-free white gold.
Rose gold
Gold alloyed with copper, often with a little silver, for a soft, warm pink tone. The copper makes it quite durable, and the colour may deepen slightly with age.
What does Pt950 mean?
Platinum is not measured in karats. Its mark gives the platinum content in parts per thousand, so Pt950 means 950 parts out of 1,000, or 95% platinum. The small remainder is an alloy added for workability and hardness.
| Mark | Platinum content | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Pt999 | 99.9% | High purity, softer |
| Pt950 | 95.0% | Commonly used in jewellery and wedding rings |
| Pt900 | 90.0% | Higher hardness |
| Pt850 | 85.0% | Lower platinum content |
Pt950 is one of the most common platinum standards in jewellery and wedding rings, because it keeps purity high while remaining practical to craft and wear.
What makes platinum different
- Naturally white. Platinum is white by nature and resists yellowing.
- High purity. It is commonly available in high-purity grades such as Pt950.
- Corrosion resistant. It stands up well to everyday environmental exposure.
- Colour stable. Its colour comes from the metal itself, so it does not require plating.
- High density. It is usually heavier than gold of the same volume, which gives a piece a substantial feel in the hand.
- Well suited to diamonds. Stable and durable, it is a popular choice for wedding rings and diamond jewellery.
One honest note: platinum does scratch, as all precious metals do. With wear it develops a soft satin finish known as a patina. Many people like this lived-in look, and a jeweller can polish it back to a high shine.
Platinum is not white gold
The two look similar across a room, and they are often confused. They are, however, different materials: platinum is mainly composed of platinum (Pt), while white gold is an alloy of gold and other metals that is usually rhodium plated.
| PT950 platinum | 18K white gold | |
|---|---|---|
| Main metal | 95% platinum | 75% gold, alloyed with white metals |
| Source of the white colour | The metal itself | The alloy, usually finished with rhodium plating |
| Upkeep | No re-plating; can be polished if you prefer a high shine | Re-plating typically every one to two years |
| Look | Naturally white with a slightly cooler, softer tone | Bright and mirror-like when freshly plated |
| With wear | Develops a soft patina | A warmer tone can show as the rhodium wears away |
| Weight | Noticeably heavier | Lighter in the same design |
How to choose
| If you want… | Consider |
|---|---|
| Real gold at the lowest price | 9K, the most affordable of the common karats, with the lowest gold content |
| Durability for an active life, or a tighter budget | 14K, the best balance of durability and value |
| Something gentle on sensitive skin | 18K or nickel-free alloys. Platinum is also a popular choice for sensitive skin, although no metal suits everyone |
| Rich colour and lasting value | 18K or higher |
| A white metal with no re-plating | PT950 platinum |
| A very bright white finish | Rhodium-plated white gold |
| Gold as an investment | 24K bullion rather than jewellery |
It also helps to look at what you already own. If your watch and everyday pieces are yellow gold, a yellow-gold pendant will join them easily. If you wear only white metals, your choice comes down to the difference between platinum and white gold above.
Quick answers
Is white gold purer than yellow gold?
No. Purity depends on the karat, not the colour. 18K white gold and 18K yellow gold both contain 75% gold.
Is 24K gold the best choice for jewellery?
Not usually. It has the highest gold content, but it is very soft, so it scratches and bends easily and is less suited to holding gemstones.
Can platinum turn yellow?
Platinum is naturally white and resists yellowing, and it has no plating to wear away. Its surface may soften to a satin patina with wear, which is a change in finish rather than colour.
Which metals does DANFÉE use?
Many of our designs are offered in 18K yellow, white and rose gold and in PT950 platinum, and some use other metals such as 14K white gold. The options for each piece are listed on its product page.
Care in brief: clean your jewellery with warm soapy water and a soft brush, then dry it thoroughly. Put it on after perfume and hairspray, take it off for swimming, sport and household chemicals, and store each piece in its own soft pouch so that softer metals do not get scratched.
DANFÉE · Fine Jewellery
Find the metal that suits you
Explore our designs in warm yellow gold, cool white gold, soft rose gold and naturally white platinum.
Shop diamond necklacesRead the solitaire guideBackground notes draw on publicly available sources, including the International Gem Society, the World Gold Council, Jewelers of America, BullionStar and Men of Platinum. Figures are typical for each grade, and exact alloys vary by maker. This guide is for general information and is not investment advice. Photographs show DANFÉE pieces; colour may vary slightly by screen.
