The Solitaire Pendant: Four Prongs or Six? Design, History and Craftsmanship

DANFÉE Magazine · The Classics

A single round diamond on a fine chain is one of the simplest ideas in jewellery, and one of the most lasting. Here we look at where the solitaire pendant comes from, what separates a four-prong setting from a six-prong one, how our two classic pendants are made, and how to choose the one that suits you.

1. Why the solitaire endures

A solitaire has one job: to let a single diamond be seen. There is no halo to compete with it and no pattern to date it. That restraint is exactly why it moves so easily between decades, wardrobes and occasions. Worn on its own, it reads as quiet and composed; layered with other chains, it becomes the point of light that ties a look together.

Both of our classic pendants follow this principle. Each holds one round lab-grown diamond of 1, 1.5 or 2 carats, graded D–E in colour and VVS in clarity, set in 18K yellow, white or rose gold, or PT950 platinum. What differs is the way the diamond is held, and that small detail changes the character of the piece.

2. A short history of the classic

The solitaire pendant as we know it brings together three separate stories: how diamonds came to be lifted into the light, how the round brilliant was refined, and how diamonds came to be grown in the laboratory.

• Before the late 19th century — diamonds were very often mounted low, in closed or heavily worked settings, with the metal sharing the spotlight with the stone.
• 1886 — Tiffany & Co. introduced its six-prong engagement ring setting, which raised the diamond above the band so that light could reach it from almost every side. It is widely regarded as the design that made the raised, open prong solitaire a standard.
• 1919 — Marcel Tolkowsky published Diamond Design, a mathematical study of how light behaves inside a diamond. His proportions became the foundation of the modern round brilliant, the cut that remains the reference point for sparkle today.
• 1954 — researchers at General Electric produced the first reproducible laboratory-grown diamonds using a high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process. These early crystals were tiny and destined for industry.
• 1971 — GE announced its first gem-quality laboratory-grown diamonds. In the decades that followed, HPHT and chemical vapour deposition (CVD) made larger, colourless stones possible.
• 2018 — the US Federal Trade Commission revised its Jewelry Guides and removed the word “natural” from its definition of a diamond, while still requiring lab-grown diamonds to be clearly described as such.

The prong setting was born on the finger, but the idea translated naturally to the neckline: the same open basket that lets light into a ring lets a pendant catch light from every angle as you move.

Further reading: Brilliant (gemstone cut), International Gem Society: A Brief History of Lab-Grown Diamonds, National Jeweler: Key Changes to the FTC Jewelry Guides.

3. Design: four prongs or six?

The Classic Four-Prong Pendant

Four prongs placed at the compass points hold the diamond with the least possible metal. More of the stone is left open to view and to light, so the diamond tends to look a touch larger and the outline reads crisp and slightly squared. It is the more graphic, modern-feeling of the two — clean proportions that let the diamond speak for itself. The chain fastens with a lobster clasp, which is easy to open and close with one hand.

The Classic Six-Prong Pendant

Six softly rounded prongs trace the circle of the diamond, creating a symmetrical, almost floral silhouette that emphasises its roundness. With six points of contact instead of four, the stone is held more evenly, and the frame softens the outline for a gentler, more traditional look. A polished oval bail carries the pendant on the chain, and the necklace closes with a fine spring-ring clasp.

4. Craftsmanship

The metals

Pure gold is too soft to hold a diamond securely, so fine jewellery uses alloys. 18K gold (Au750) is 75% gold, blended with other metals for strength and colour: warm in yellow gold, cool and bright in white gold, blush-toned in rose gold. PT950 platinum is 95% pure platinum, dense and naturally white, with a quiet lustre that will not fade to a yellow tone over time. All four options are offered for both pendants.

The diamond

Each pendant holds a round lab-grown diamond. Lab-grown diamonds have essentially the same chemical, physical and optical properties as mined diamonds; the difference is their origin. Ours are graded D–E, the top of the colourless range, and VVS, meaning any inclusions are extremely difficult to see even under 10× magnification. Every stone is accompanied by its own IGI report, which you can check on our certificate verification page.

The setting

A prong setting looks effortless, but it is precise work. Each prong is shaped and finished so that it grips the diamond at its girdle, holds it level and centred, and sits smoothly against the skin and clothing. The open basket beneath lets light enter from the sides and back, which is a large part of why a prong-set solitaire looks so lively when it moves. On the six-prong pendant, the rounded prong tips and the polished oval bail are finished to the same smooth standard, so the piece glides along the chain.

Choosing a carat weight

Carat measures weight, not size, but for a well-cut round diamond the face-up diameter follows a fairly predictable pattern. As an approximate guide:

Diameters are typical values for well-proportioned round brilliants and will vary slightly from stone to stone. Refer to the measurements on your diamond's IGI report.

5. Who each pendant suits

Both pendants make natural gifts for the moments people remember: a graduation, a first job, a wedding day, an anniversary, the birth of a child, or a birthday that deserves something lasting. Because a solitaire is so unfussy, it suits almost any age and style, from someone who wears jewellery every day to someone who owns just one treasured piece.

Choosing a metal

• 18K yellow gold — warm and classic; beautiful against warm and olive skin tones and with cream, camel and black.
• 18K white gold — cool and bright; pairs well with silver-toned watches and a crisp, modern wardrobe.
• 18K rose gold — soft and romantic; flattering on many skin tones and lovely with pastels and neutrals.
• PT950 platinum — naturally white and weighty, for those who want the quietest, most enduring white metal.

Skin tone is a starting point, not a rule. The best metal is the one you reach for every morning, and the one that matches the other jewellery you already wear.

6. How to wear it

Both necklaces come on a fine cable chain adjustable between 40 and 45 cm (16″–18″) with an extender. At 40 cm the diamond sits near the collarbone, perfect with open collars and crew necks. At 45 cm it falls slightly lower, framing V-necks and shirts worn open at the throat. For layering, wear the solitaire at its shortest setting and add a longer chain below.